Normandy -- Days 1 and 2

We're back from a 3-day trip to Normandy with David's parents. The SNCF train system here makes it really easy, comfortable, and relatively inexpensive to travel to different parts of France. The trip to Normandy was only 90 minutes long and a steal at 32€ round-trip per person.

We arrived in the city of Caen in the heart of the Normandy region. After renting a car, we drove about 25 miles to our bed and breakfast in the tiny village of Saint Philbert des Champs. La Ferme des Poiriers Roses is a B&B in a restored farmhouse run by Madame Lecomeur who greeted us warmly despite the drizzly, grey weather. The land surrounding the farmhouse was lush and green and filled with apple trees. (We learned that Normandy is a top producer of apples in France and is the place of origin of Calvados--a distilled apple brandy.)

We found our rooms to be full of character and quite unique... David and I have never stayed in a room where the bathtub and toilet are located *in* the room with only a curtain as a separator, and David's parents have never stayed in a room where the bathroom door was padded (like the lid of a coffin!, said David's dad). But the beds were warm and comfortable, the grounds were beautiful, and we enjoyed two wonderful breakfasts consisting of homemade crepes, fruit gratins, fresh-baked bread, yogurt, and apple tarts.

David has become a pro at driving rental cars all over the countrysides and cities of France. On our honeymoon, he drove us around Provence; last month we explored Lyon and the Rhone Valley, and this time, the 5 of us piled into a little Renault Modus and explored cities around the Calvados and Normandy area. On Friday night, we drove around the seaside city of Honfleur, looking for a restaurant recommended by Madame Lecomeur called Au Vieux Honfleur.

All four of us ordered the prix fixe dinner consisting of a starter, main course, and dessert. Our starters (entrées) consisted of feuilleté de sole (Dover sole in puff pastry); rillettes de poissons aux herbes (finely minced fish and herbs over a perfectly dressed salad); raw Normandy oysters.

Our plats (main courses) included raie beurre noisette et capres (skate wing in a browned butter with capers); paupiette de poularde aux morilles (rolled chicken topped with morel mushrooms); and poisson de la Marée a la Normande (cod with mussels and shrimp in a creamy Normandy-style sauce).

Finally, desserts! Délice au chocolat (terrine of chocolate mousse); fruits melba; sablé aux fruits rouges; and an assortment of sorbets. Everyone agreed that our meal here was perfect in every way. Even Emmett enjoyed some jarred baby food (a special treat for him reserved for traveling) that the staff kindly heated and presented with little bowls and spoons.





On Thursday, after a yummy breakfast at our B&B, we headed out to Le Mémorial, the World War II museum on the outskirts of Caen. While David and his parents went through the museum, Emmett didn't seem too interested in the World War II history and much preferred playing in the incredibly well-outfitted halte-garderie (child care center). I'm not sure how it's usually run (it looked like there were regular staff members who work there), but it was empty for most of the time Emmett and I were there. He loved being in his very own little amusement park.

Enclosed within the glass walls and windows was a sunlight-filled room filled with puzzles, wooden and plastic infant/toddler toys, a train table, books, games, a diaper changing area, little cots, craft supplies (for older children up to age 10) and child-sized chairs and tables. I told David that I would have gladly paid admission to go into the museum the following day just so that Emmett could have another day to play.

Afterwards, we went to Bayeux to see the Tapisserie de Bayeux (Bayeux Tapestry) which dates from the 11th century and tells the tale of William the Conqueror's (or William the Bastard, depending on how you look at it) military victory over England and the betrayal of Harold.

Then we drove north to see Omaha Beach, the landing site where the U.S. Infantry divisions suffered the most casualties on D-Day (June 6, 1944). Omaha Beach looks just like any regular beach now with long stretches of beautiful sand, except for the towering metal monument that serves as a reminder of the sacrifices made on D-Day (Jour-J in French).

It was incredibly moving to all of us to step foot on the beach, especially after having seen reenactments of the bloodshed that took place there both in the museum and in movies (David wants to watch "Band of Brothers", the HBO mini-series when he returns home). As it was starting to get cold and windy, we only made a brief stop at the U.S. Military cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer, but it was still worth the visit. Set against the sea, it is a beautiful and fitting final resting spot for soldiers who lost their lives during the war.