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Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert



For my parents' last evening in Paris a couple weeks ago, David and I took them to Bistrot Paul Bert, a short metro ride from our apartment. Neither of us had been here, so we were a bit nervous about bringing my parents and Emmett, not knowing how close together the tables were situated.

We have been in some tiny restaurants where Emmett's portable booster chair is pushed up *right* next to another table making us nervous that he'll reach over and grab something or someone. We needn't have worried because we were greeted warmly and seated at a roomy table where Emmett sat comfortably at the head.

The daily-changing menu was brought to us on a chalkboard, propped up on a chair.

Here's what we had:
  • Carpaccio de veau et rognons aux girolles confites (veal and veal kidney carpaccio with chanterelle mushrooms which David thoroughly enjoyed)
  • Salade de cresson et son oeuf poché à la creme de lardons (watercress salad with a poached egg in a creamy bacon dressing that was a refreshing change from the usual frisee salad with bacon. The cress added a spiciness and different kind of crunch which I loved.)
  • Feuilleté de ris de veau à la crème de cepes (Veal sweetbread in a puff pastry with porcini mushroom cream -- very decadent, but my mother ate every bite. She loved this preparation.)
  • Tartare de cabillaud à la citronelle (Hearty chunks of cod and perfectly diced little vegetables in a fruity citrus-olive oil dressing)
  • Lievre à la royale et sa purée maison (Wild hare with foie gras and celery puree)
  • Tournedos d'agneau à la huile de poivre et sa polenta (Bacon-wrapped lamb seared in olive oil with a crunch polenta cake)
  • Entrecote de bouef à la moelle et ses frites maison (David and I both ordered this rib-eye steak that was perfectly charred on the outside and sprinkled with sauteed shallot and topped with chunks of bone marrow. The fries were the only disappointment as they were very thickly cut and not fried long enough in my opinion.)

Dessert:
  • Croustillant aux pommes et son caramel au beurre salé (slivers of apple baked in a filo dough 'purse') with a sauce of caramel of salted butter
  • Fondant au chocolat (chocolate cake in a luscious pool of vanilla bean creme anglaise)
  • Fontainbleau au coulis de fraise (soft sweetened cheese enriched with whipped cream in a strawberry sauce)
  • Nougat glacé maison et ses coings confit aux epices (Nougat ice cream with spiced quince confit)

My parents exclaimed several times during the meal how much they loved the food and the restaurant. My dad, who is usually rather reticent, told our servers twice that the food was excellent. My mom who can be a tough critic to please, asked me, "How did you ever find this place?" Emmett even shared his appreciation by clapping for one of the servers which made her laugh out loud and run to bring the other server over to have him come see.

The service we received was very warm, the two servers doted on Emmett throughout the night, and the terrific menu had a little of everything: standard Parisian and contemporary French fare. Every dish was executed perfectly, and to us, it perfectly represented what typical Paris bistros are serving these days: one or two very fresh ingredients highlighted simply and creatively with not too much fuss or muss.

We will definitely return.

Bistrot Paul Bert
18, rue Paul Bert (11th arr.)

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